Fashion Detectives
Photos are the best fashion history records because they don’t just show clothes they show you how gloriously people wore them! There is an exhibition on at the National Photographic Archive at the moment called Photo Detectives which showcases some of the archive’s most-loved (and most commented on) photos on Flickr. Each photo is mounted in almost life-size scale on the walls which makes you engage in the images in a different way and allows you to look more closely at the detail. I took a walk about and snapped some of the detail of the most interesting fashion in the photos – come with me let’s be fashion history detectives…
Take a look at this picture of Jewish wedding in Waterford (pictured above and below) which showcases the most stylish be-feathered, be-hatted wedding spectacle. See the full picture on Flickr here. The bride and groom were an Ester Levin of John Street, Waterford (22), and a Myer Stein of Raymond Street, Dublin (25), and the wedding took place at Waterford Courthouse, in early September 1901. Not only is it unusual to see a photo of a Jewish Irish wedding party what struck me was how incredibly stylishly turned out everyone is from the bride and groom to the Rabbi and the little pageboy. The picture shows off no less than 10 be-feathered hats, 2 straw boaters, 5 bowler hats and 4 top hats. The ladies are dressed in the high-necked, corseted splendour of Edwardian period with all the trimmings (most likely kept under lock and key for this special day). And the gentlemen are in 3 piece-suits with bow-ties in white and black, studded collars and poppies or carnations in their pin-holes. And of course people dressed up for family weddings but I think this is a wedding with a difference.
Pretty posies
Let’s look at the bride (pictured below) and who I think is the bridesmaid to the right in a white feathered hat. The bride’s dress is appropriate and fashionable for the turn of the century. It looks like she is wearing a white silk dress, her corseted waist is defined and decorated with a pretty posy on her left breast. Soft tulle is gathered at her neck and she is wearing a delicate veil also decorated with (what looks like) tiny artificial flowers, she also wears white kid gloves and holds what also seems to be a drawstring bag in her hands.
Now let’s look at the bridesmaid, if ever there was a case for upstaging the bride this is it! Does the bride look a bit miffed to you? Here she is dressed splendidly in a corseted bodice with a gathered pigeon front and draped off the shoulder sleeves very fashionable at the time, a shape which is not unlike something we might see today from a brand like Self-Portrait, and underneath to save her modesty she has the most exquisite lace sleeves and a high boned collar. At this point in fashion lace was very much in vogue and there was a particular love for Irish lace in Paris fashion houses – so much so it was named as Point D’Irlande. Where this lady got her lace from we don’t know but it does look like beautiful quality. And the piece de resistance of this outfit is this lady’s extravagant string of pearls strung nonchalantly around her neck and draped well below her waist. She also wears gloves and demurely holds wedding flowers. The quality of her clothes and her gesture tell us she is a lady of fashion! As James Joyce would say she is a ‘votary of Dame Fashion.’
Feathers and lace in perfect place
The wedding party also have their finest on too. But what I love here is the Edwardian love for ornamentation. We can see ribbons, pin-tucks, decorative cuffs are in abundance for women and even more beautiful lace on display specifically around the neckline and for the men crisp high white studded collars, bow ties and sharp lapels.
The hands say it all
Couldn’t help but comment on how sweetly this lady holds the hand of her little son above. It’s just too cute. Plus both women sport wedding rings and pretty cuffs of lace and cotton.
Poppies v’s Carnations
More poppies and carnations decorate the waists of women and the lapels of men. To the right this lady’s straw hat is bedecked in tulle and ribbon, it is magnificent but actually low key by Edwardian Belle Époque standards.
With all this fashion on display the question remains? Who were the dressmakers and tailors for these beautiful clothes? Did they shop for lace and millinery in Waterford or Dublin or did they go further afield to European capitals? Methinks there’s a bit more research to be done – stay tuned for another blog.
The Photo Detectives exhibition is currently running in the National Photographic Archive on Meeting House Square, Temple Bar.
See a review of the exhibition by The Irish Times here.
Photos taken by Ruth Griffin (of the photos at the exhibition in the National Photographic Archive) with iPhone 6S.
Wedding Party: Poole Photographic Collection courtesy of the National Photographic Archive.