Colourful Cork
Cork is a colourful city- colourful in its sweetie hued houses perched and terraced on hills and colouful in it’s food, shopping and Café culture. I spent 48 hours last Friday in the city to take in a snippet of the famous Cork culture. Here is a round-up of what I found and is a mini guide for those who want a quick guide of what to do, shop, eat and see in city of Cork for a weekend.
The English market is a historic food market right in the heart of the city that needs no introduction for food lovers. Rick Stein has dubbed it the best covered food market in the UK and Ireland and Her Royal Highness came to visit on her tour of Ireland. It is a truly gorgeous Victorian space with stalls who have been selling their wares for over a hundred years. At the Grand Parade entrance there is one of the oldest stalls in the Market selling two traditional delicacies, tripe and drisheen- not for the faint of heart. You’ll also find fresh meats and fish, herbs and spices, fruit and vegetables, sauces and oils, chocolates and cakes, cheeses and pastas and Irish delicacies from organic vegetables, incredible seafood and chocolatiers (see the chocolate asparagus pictured below) and some clothes and bric-a-brac along with an award winning cafe or two. I am definitely coming back to create a picnic from the amazing foods in The English Market in the summer.
The Farmgate Café tucked up in the eaves of The English Market is so popluar there are long queues at lunch-time which run back down the stairs to the market. Th is is the space to taste the Market fare, they serve fish chowder and soups, roasts in a bap- it was pork and apple on my visit, yum, and an amazing selection of sandwiches and sweet treats. This spot is a great way to view the hustle and bustle of the market and shoppers below whilst enjoying simply delicious food.
Miss Daisy Blue is a vintage store which will satisfy the most ardent of vintage hunters, like me. Their visual merchandising around the store showcasing their 20th century wares is wonderful as is the vintage treasures for men and for women you will find. On my visit I spotted a great selection of colourful wool coats with pretty fur collars and intriguing curios like the turn of the century lace-up boots pictured below dotted throughout the shop. Browsing the rails of Miss Daisy Blue is sure to unearth an amazing dress or two. Find out more about the lady behind Miss Daisy Blue with this fabulous interview with the owner Breda Casey on Vintage Irene’s blog here.
Mutton Lane is like sitting in a Sailor’s Inn of the past. This gorgeous pub is down a lane which leads to The English Market and is where sheep were traditionally herded into the market- hence the name. It is one of the oldest drinking establishments in the city and from first sight through the glass in the door the pub is inviting. It is decorated with Moroccan lamps has cute cosy corners and snugs, 19th century prints, vintage pictures of Johnny Cash and The Kennedy’s who peep down from above the bar and each table is set with a candle in a bottle which makes each table very atmospheric but also strangely private.
A restaurant which lives up to its name. I arrived for a 9pm sitting early and was sent to the pub next door for an appertif. The restaurant is simply decorated. It is warm and modern with soft grey walls and low overhung lighting. There are no words for the food, each morsel was a sensation. Go and eat and savour the genius of Denis Cotter and if you are staying for the weekend try out their accommodation and dinner offer.
The Crawford Art gallery is located just off the main street of Patrick’s Street in Emmet Place in a beautiful historic building which was erected in 1724, as Cork´s Custom House. The space itself is so gorgeous, upon entering there is a classical gallery of sculptures and casts which takes you back to the old art school tradition of learning from the old masters. In fact I found the picture above hung on the walls of the gallery which shows art students in the early 20th century using the classical sculptures to learn their craft. The current exhibition called Our Choice showcases print from the Crawford archive as picked by the staff. This was a glorious exhibition with prints from Picasso, Salvador Dali, Alice Maher and Daniel Maclise.
