The cup that cheers
“Tea is the cup that cheers but doesn’t intoxicate.” I love this quote and I have always loved the rituals surrounding tea. So travelling to Japan last year was heavenly as I had a field day trying out tea-rooms, tea ceremonies and contemporary tea spaces. Here are some of the most beautiful tea-rooms I found along the way. So whether you are dreaming of a trip to Japan or are ready to take a flight of fancy its time to put on your own brew, cosy up and let me tell you all about my top 3 tea spots in Kyoto…
Kodaiji Rakusho tea room with the staff wearing pretty headscarves and little wooden clogs all lined up for the tatimi mats.
Tucked away down a side street on the way to the Kiyomiz-dera temple in Kyoto you’ll find the most charming tea-room called Kodaiji Rakusho. I loved it instantaneously for its contemporary calm and the traditional elegance of tatimi mats and low tables. I also loved that the waitresses all wear cute headscarves and aprons in gingham and finished with pretty criss-cross bow-ties, see pictured below. The cafe serves matcha, tea, pancakes and delicious desserts with a smile. What also makes this tea-room exquisite is the little garden running alongside the room. It is a perfectly manicured mini Japanese garden where a koi pool of gloriously hued carp glide back and forth in a rush of colour about water- its the perfect spot to sip tea and meditate on life or indeed your next move! I spent a couple of hours here hynotised by the fish.
The koi-pool where you can sip your tea at Kodaiji Rakusho.
A girl enjoying her dessert at Kodaiji Rakusho and waitress in pretty apron and headscarf.
Kyoto Nama Chocolat Organic Tea House
My guidebook put this magic place on the map for me – but I actually found it hard to find. It was much easier to happen upon by bike because it was a residential area and I could fly around all the streets until I found it. Near the Philosophers Path in Kyoto this tea room is in the very home of the owners- Sherry Nakanishi a Canadian children’s book author and her husband Nakanishi Hirofumi a talented chocolatier whose delicious chocolate morsels are served in the cafe and whose delicacies have graced the table of the Japanese Ambassador in New York. Entering this tea-room is like entering another world, with low lacquer tables, beautifully painted screens and panels and all windows flung open to a rambling green garden. Sherry is a warm hostess and spent lots of time chatting and telling me about her life in Kyoto and visits to Inishboifin island in Ireland. Joining the party were the house cat and dog who lounge and relax amongst the furniture whiling away perfect afternoons just like the customers.
Floral painted panels at Kyoto Nama Chocolat Cafe, the cat of the house, matcha tea and delicious chocolates made by the owner on the premises, the view out onto the rambling garden from the tea-room.
One of the most beautiful experiences I have ever had was at Hiiragiya Ryokan in Kyoto- a Ryokan is a traditional Japanese guesthouse and if you have ever experienced Japanese hospitality this is where things go from incredible to unbelievable. Hiiragiya was established in 1818 and is still owned by the same family. From the moment I set foot in the door I was treated like a movie star. Leather slippers were popped onto my feet- belongings taken from my hands and a perfectly folded kimono lying waiting for me. My hostess was exquisitely dressed in a beautiful soft purple kimono and my room was a showcase in Japanese design, with every item, flower and piece of furniture arranged in beautiful simplicity.Throughout my stay I enjoyed wooden onsen bath, my own private garden, a 12 course dinner and endless treats- one of which was a tray of piping hot fresh tea set out beautifully for me each time, all delivered to my room as often as I liked- see below the matcha tea I enjoyed in their specially designed holly printed pot- because Hiiragiya gets its name from a type of holly (hiiragi) that is believed to bring good fortune.
Perfectly arranged flowers and my tea accoutrements on a red laquered table in Hiiragiya, Ryokan, Kyoto.
All photos by Ruth Griffin on Canon EOS 600D